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Get Down Low: Sample Lesson

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I would say that my #1 piece of advice is to get down low to the ground.

And no matter how many times I say it, whenever I teach a workshop or a lesson, I usually STILL need to tell the student to get low. Nope, lower than that. Keep going. 

You may need to be lying on your belly, or crouching over your camera if you have a flip-out screen. The important thing is to (almost always) get down low. 

I know there’s a long lesson coming up, with several topics… because I cannot stress the importance of getting down low to the ground enough. 

Take a look at the photos below.

Which one connects you with the dog more? (okay, Journey’s expression in one is TERRIBLE)

Which one gives you more of a sense of “place”? 

Which one FEELS like a more interesting photo?

These were all taken at the EXACT same location. I didn’t move, I simply got closer to the ground!

I think it goes without saying that the perspective or angle at which we take our photos can determine whether they are impactful portraits with a sense of depth and context… or not. It can determine how majestic our dog looks, how connected we are with the dog, how powerful they come across, and can often separate a professional-feeling photo from an amateur one.

Have a look at just how low I get while taking a photo of Loki…

Portrait Photos / Portraiture

In general, for our portrait-style shoots, we want to focus on including a soft blurred foreground in our image. This helps to give a sense of depth and perspective, and to really place the dog within the scene. These layers can really help our images feel more 3D, and invite our viewers into them. !

Our subjects need to have presence. If you’re here,I can only assume it’s because you’ve moved beyond taking happy snaps of your pet, and want to create something beautiful, with presence. Maybe you want to find your style, and make something that could be powerful, or emotive, dramatic, intense, or joyful. In any case, I would argue that our subjects always need to have some kind of presence in the scene, whether it’s a close-up headshot, or they are amongst a mountain range. Without presence, we may as well continue scrolling.

Even just slight changes in height and angle can affect this feeling of presence and depth. 

Some people recommend you try to be at the level of the dog’s eyes… but I’d go one step further and say you should be at the level of their elbow, at the highest. Most of the time, my camera is about 10cm off the ground, unless there’s a lot of foreground & bushes.

You can play with the angle and perspective. Sometimes shooting straight across works better, sometimes shooting with your lens angled upward works better. 

I’m always trying to achieve a balance between the amount of blurry foreground in the image, and the rest of the scene. Getting low doesn’t mean you need 1/3 of your image to be blurry foreground!

Below are two sets of two very similar photos in terms of mood, location, lighting and so on, but to me one of them definitely feels like you are more drawn into the scene, that you have a sense of the whole scene, and of Loki or Journey’s presence within the scene. 

Notice how that bit of extra foreground blur just adds an extra element of depth to the scene.

This concept applies equally to Phone photos, as well as wider-angle lenses… however! You may need to play around a little more to get the perfect angle, as going too low can look a bit comical and strange with wider angle lenses. The photo examples below: one taken higher, or the normal angle I see many new photographers using, and one getting very low, were all taken with my iPhone 11.

How low do I need to be though, really?

This really depends a lot on the foreground and even on the camera and lens you’re using.

My camera which hasn’t articulating screen, for example, means I don’t have to (myself) get quite so low, however my camera is usually still very close to the ground.

In order to achieve this we may need to lie on our belly, kneel down on hands and knees, be on all fours with our elbows and knees on the ground, crouch down with one knee on the ground and the other up – you’ll see that I do this quite often because of my screen.

We may be able to sit cross-legged and really lean forward if you’re flexible enough. I’ve even seem people lying on their back and kind of twisting forward, so it really depends on the situation, the location and exactly what you’re trying to achieve.

As long as you’re focusing on the foreground and the dog having a sense of presence, that is the most important thing.

As you look at the images below, think about how you may have been positioned when taking your most recent photos. Have a look through some recent photos and ask yourself: is the dog powerful? Do you have a sense of the scene? Are there layers to the image? Do you get a sense of the dog’s size and presence?

Could you be even lower?

Other Creative Options?

Of course there are a lot of other creative ways that you may want to pose your subject, so how high or how low you need to be is really relevant to the kind of mood and aesthetic that you’re going for.

If you want your dog really towering over you then you’re going to need to be quite low.  I would however, caution that in most cases being slightly above your dog is usually not the most flattering angle, or the most impressive.

It doesn’t really tell a story and it doesn’t really do much to enhance our images at all.

In general it’s better to err on the side of being slightly lower, assuming that the dog still has catchlight in their eyes, so whether you have them posed somewhere interesting or doing something interesting it usually works better in our favour if we are lower rather than higher.

I can’t really think of very many examples except for the overhead shots where I would want to be taking photos of my dogs from a higher perspective.

Get Down Low

Table of Contents

I would say that my #1 piece of advice is to get down low to the ground.

And no matter how many times I say it, whenever I teach a workshop or a lesson, I usually STILL need to tell the student to get low. Nope, lower than that. Keep going. 

You may need to be lying on your belly, or crouching over your camera if you have a flip-out screen. The important thing is to (almost always) get down low. 

As with all my lessons, these ARE guidelines – not hard and fast rules. It’s up to YOU to analyse the situation you’re in, and determine what is going to look best for the location, the pose, the subject, the background, and the story you want to tell.

Take a look at the photos below.

Which one connects you with the dog more? (okay, Journey’s expression in one is TERRIBLE)

Which one gives you more of a sense of “place”? 

Which one FEELS like a more interesting photo?

These were all taken at the EXACT same location. I didn’t move, I simply got closer to the ground!

I think it goes without saying that the perspective or angle at which we take our photos can determine whether they are impactful portraits with a sense of depth and context… or not. It can determine how majestic our dog looks, how connected we are with the dog, how powerful they come across, and can often separate a professional-feeling photo from an amateur one.

Have a look at just how low I get while taking a photo of Loki.

Portrait Photos / Portraiture

In general, for our portrait-style shoots, we want the dog to have presence, power and connection (after all – it’s ALL about the dog). Most people think this means we need to shoot at the level of the dog’s eyes, but I’d go one step further and say you should be at the level of their elbow, at the highest. Most of the time, my camera is about 10cm off the ground, unless there’s a lot of foreground & bushes.

Getting down low also helps to give a sense of depth and perspective, and to really place the dog within the scene. By having a foreground, we create an extra layer and more depth to out image. These layers can really help our images feel more 3D, and invite our viewers into them.

Our subjects need to have presence. If you’re here,I can only assume it’s because you’ve moved beyond taking happy snaps of your pet, and want to create something beautiful, with presence. Maybe you want to find your style, and make something that could be powerful, or emotive, dramatic, intense, or joyful. In any case, I would argue that our subjects always need to have some kind of presence in the scene, whether it’s a close-up headshot, or they are amongst a mountain range. Without presence, we may as well continue scrolling.

Even just slight changes in height and angle can affect this feeling of presence and depth. 

You can play with the angle and perspective. Sometimes shooting straight across works better, sometimes shooting with your lens angled upward works better. There’s more information and behind the scenes clips coming up throughout this lesson.

I’m always trying to achieve a balance between the amount of blurry foreground in the image, and the rest of the scene. Getting low doesn’t mean you need 1/3 of your image to be blurry foreground!

Above, note the blurry foreground, and how this adds depth and layers to the image, but also that by having more background rather than just the GROUND, we have more depth in that direction too. Below are the two different angles at which I took these photos. You’ll see the 2nd one isn’t even THAT low – but it makes a big change from the first one. This is with a 50mm lens, which shows more of the scene than my normal 85mm or 135mm, and therefore I didn’t have to be quite as extreme with it. 

As always, adjust to your individual locations, scenarios, and equipment.

Below are two sets of two very similar photos in terms of mood, location, lighting and so on, but to me one of them definitely feels like you are more drawn into the scene, that you have a sense of the whole scene, and of Loki or Journey’s presence within the scene. 

Notice how that bit of extra foreground blur just adds an extra element of depth to the scene. Notice as well in all of the examples in this lesson and upcoming topics, how much of the GROUND you can see (which is relatively flat/no depth, and uninteresting) vs how much BACKGROUND you can see. For me – unless the GROUND is interesting, I really don’t want to include very much of it. And if it IS interesting, I want to include it in a way that’s very PURPOSEFUL. You’ll see more about that in the “times to not get low” topic.

This concept applies equally to Phone photos, as well as wider-angle lenses… however! You may need to play around a little more to get the perfect angle, as going too low can look a bit comical and strange with wider angle lenses. The photo examples below: one taken higher, or the normal angle I see many new photographers using, and one getting very low, were all taken with my iPhone 11.

How low do I need to be though, really?

This really depends a lot on the foreground and even on the camera and lens you’re using.

My camera which has an articulating screen, for example, means I don’t have to (myself) get quite so low, however my camera is usually still very close to the ground.

In order to achieve this we may need to lie on our belly, kneel down on hands and knees, be on all fours with our elbows and knees on the ground, crouch down with one knee on the ground and the other up – you’ll see that I do this quite often because of my screen.

We may be able to sit cross-legged and really lean forward if you’re flexible enough. I’ve even seem people lying on their back and kind of twisting forward, so it really depends on the situation, the location and exactly what you’re trying to achieve.

You’ll see some behind the scenes examples in the upcoming Behind the Scenes: Getting Low comparisons.

As you look at the images below, think about how you may have been positioned when taking your most recent photos. Have a look through some recent photos and ask yourself: is the dog powerful? Do you have a sense of the scene? Are there layers to the image? Do you get a sense of the dog’s size and presence?

Could you be even lower?

What I’ve found, after doing hundreds (maybe thousands) of critiques, is that when people don’t get low, we tend to see a lot of the GROUND in the background, and this can make the photo feel very one-dimensional. 

Other Creative Options?

Of course there are a lot of other creative ways that you may want to pose your subject, so how high or how low you need to be is really relevant to the location itself, the dog, the pose, your gear, and kind of mood and aesthetic that you’re going for.

If you want your dog really towering over you then you’re going to need to be quite low.  I would however, caution that in most cases being slightly above your dog is usually not the most flattering angle, or the most impressive. Taking photos from “eye level” or kneeling like in my examples above, usually results in a photo that feels more like an amateur happy snap – USUALLY. 

It doesn’t really tell a story and it doesn’t really do much to enhance our images at all.

In general it’s better to err on the side of being slightly lower, assuming that the dog still has catchlight in their eyes, so whether you have them posed somewhere interesting or doing something interesting it usually works better in our favour if we are lower rather than higher.

I can’t really think of very many examples except for the overhead shots where I would want to be taking photos of my dogs from a higher perspective but you will find more information in the upcoming topics.

Composition Basics

In this lesson...

Composition is a scary word, but it’s all about how our image is put together.

This might include:

  • where the subject is positioned in the photo
  • how much of the frame they take up
  • what other elements are in the photo
  • how much space they take up
  • the over all “balance” of elements in the photo

Maybe the most important thing when it comes to composition, is for the photo to feel comfortable to be in and to spend time in.

Our aim with our images should be to try and find a balance, and composition is a big part of that. Some elements of an image take up visually more space than others, so begin thinking about whether your image feels balanced, or if it’s being “pulled” to one side or another.

 

Our audience should be able to move through our photo, to return back to our subject.

In this lesson, you’ll find my three most important guides to start thinking about regarding composition, before you consider anything like rules, guides, or grids.

The Most Important Thing: Don't Chop the Dog

In general, we want to avoid “chopping our dog”. 

There are slightly different rules with horses as they are so big, but smaller animals like dogs, cats, and so on, shouldn’t be “chopped.”

This means: chopping through the legs, chopping off paws or toes, chopping off tails, chopping bodies in half, and chopping off the tips of ears, should all be avoided.

Are there exceptions to this “rule”?

Of course, there always are.

For example, head and shoulders photos, where the dog is chopped through the widest part of the shoulder, feels totally ok. 

Some extreme close-up shots can also be fine if the top of the head is chopped, for example. These should be purposeful! If the toes or paws are cut at the wrists, this doesn’t feel purposeful, the photo is awkward and a bit uncomfortable, or it feels unfinished. 

Below is a lovely selection of my old photos from when I had just started learning pet photography (or before I’d even started learning!) of where I make some pretty significant compositional errors, but for the most case the problem is with chopping the dog.

 Compare them to the second gallery, with full bodies and headshots – ALSO from very early on in my learning process so we can’t blame fancy-editing for the improvement.

Some improvement on composition (still some work to be done!)

The Second-Most Important Thing: Breathing Room

Now that you’re not chopping the dog, I bet a new problem has popped up:

Not giving the dog “breathing room”.

What I mean is, giving the dog a bit of room to breathe. A bit of space below his feet and above his head. Behind him, in front of him. Does this mean he needs to be smack-bang in the middle of the photo?

No.

But photos like this:

Can also feel a bit “claustrophobic”. 

Does this mean your dog always needs to be super far from the camera?

Nope.

But being conscious of where their ears, feet, tails etc are during the shoot, OR having the skills and tools to take extra photos to fix your composition if needed (I do this all the time, since I get too excited and just take photos) is really important.

Dusty has plenty of "breathing room".

The Third Most Important Thing: Space to Look Into

In general, if your subject is looking to one side, they will need “space to look into”. 

The more severely they look to the side, the more space they will probably need. 

Giving them space to look into means we can move through the photo, their gaze isn’t blocked by the edge of the photo, and it will generally “flow” better.

These are some not-so-great examples from my past:

You’ll notice I’ve included a couple of photos here where the dog is in the middle of the photo, and he does “technically” have space to look into…

But because he’s looking to the side, but with a centred composition, the balance of the photo is off. You’ll see what I mean (hopefully) with the examples below. 

You’ll notice also a few portrait orientation photos, and you might be spiralling into a panic right now because you’ve been told that photos in portrait orientation do best on Instagram, but how can you possibly give the dog space to look into with portrait orientation?!

Well, there’s a whole lesson on this topic coming up.

But let’s just say that first of all, I believe dogs fit much, much better into landscape orientation pictures, since they’re horizontal creatures.

Second of all, I don’t make my photos for social media. I make them to be beautiful. 

Thirdly, I would say that… 95% of my photos on Instagram are in landscape orientation. I’m currently sitting at 53,000 followers. Similarly, the majority of well-known, high-level, professional pet photographers shoot mostly landscape orientation.

Why? Because the composition will make more sense. 

So… either create photos for a social media orientation, even though I’d argue it makes no difference at all…. or create them to be beautiful and compositionally balanced.

And of course... some much better examples

Hang on Em! Some of these photos are portrait orientation and you just said not to do portrait orientation!!!

Indeed, there are some photos here in portrait orientation. Have a look at the gazing direction of the dog. Is he looking to the side? 

Or is he looking… up?

Can this rule be broken?

Of course! Any rule can be broken! But again, I think it needs to be done purposefully or for a reason… and I don’t have many examples of that!

I think the photo below is probably one of the few times I’ve really purposefully broken the rule, and even then I would argue she STILL has space to look into, as she’s looking up to the top right corner in a diagonal, rather than directly to the right.